Our culture is filled with images of children and rabbits together (think the Easter bunny and Peter Rabbit) resulting in many people seeing rabbits as low-maintenance starter pets for kids. It’s true that children are naturally energetic and loving, but “loving” to a small child means cuddling or carrying an animal around—things that frighten most rabbits. Rabbits can’t cry out when distressed. Instead, they may start to scratch or bite to protect themselves. Thousands of rabbits are abandoned at animal shelters every year for this reason. Rabbits are physically fragile creatures and may die of heart attacks from stress; for instance from screaming kids at play or seeing a predator close to their outdoor hutch – a feral cat or the family dog whose instinct tells it to kill the rabbit. 

There’s a lot of variety among domestic rabbits. The more than 60 breeds include the Dutch, droopy eared German lops and furry Cashmeres. Rabbits range in size from teeny two-pounders to the 13-pound Flemish Giant. If possible ask to see the parents before you take a baby rabbit so that you will have an idea how big it will grow. Rabbits are inquisitive, intelligent, sociable and affectionate – and if well-cared for, rabbits can live for 10 or more years. Your choice of breed will influence the cost of keeping a rabbit. 

While a rabbit may be a great pet for your family, an adult should be the primary caretaker. The best place to get a pet rabbit is through adoption. There are many homeless pet rabbits in local rescue around West Cork. 

Rabbit’s Social Life 

Although being outdoors is the natural habitat for a rabbit, a backyard hutch forces these social animals to live in unnatural isolation. Make sure you spend either enough time with your rabbits or bring them indoors for quality time. 

Ideally, rabbits should not be housed alone. However, keeping them with other rabbits is only a good idea if they are all spayed and neutered – unless you would like a hoard of baby rabbits. Spaying or neutering also prevents spraying in males and uterine cancer in females. 

Rabbit social introductions can be difficult. They are territorial animals and may injure each other when first introduced. You can try to introduce rabbits to each other in neutral territory and under careful supervision, and only if you are confident. Ask for help if you are not sure! 

Housing & Exercise 

When you first get a rabbit, you’ll need to allow for the cost of a cage, a carrier and a litter box, litter and bedding material. Then there is food, toys and treats. Many rabbits have ended up in shelters because of destructive behaviour. Usually they get bored for lack of company and lack of appropriate toys to fulfil their natural urges to dig and chew. Safe chew toys include cardboard boxes, an old telephone directory (that’s no joke!) and commercial chew sticks. A rabbit greatly appreciates his own digging box, such as a cardboard box filled halfway with soil or shredded paper. 

They may be small, but rabbits require a lot of room for housing and exercise. They have powerful hind legs designed for running and jumping. Get your pet a cage that allows him to move freely. Although wire-bottom cages are common, they can ulcerate a rabbit’s feet. If you have a wire cage, cover the bottom with a piece of untreated wood or corrugated cardboard which can be regularly replaced. Better yet, buy a cage with a solid bottom, line the bottom with newspaper and then untreated wood shavings. Put down plenty of straw or hay so your pet can make a cozy nest. 

The minimum recommended cage space for a single rabbit of a small to medium-sized breed is four feet wide, two feet deep and two feet tall. This does not include exercise space (a run). Recommended exercise time for pet rabbits is several hours per day. Your rabbit needs a safe exercise area with ample room to run and jump, either indoors or out. Any outdoor area should be fully enclosed by a fence. Never leave a rabbit unsupervised outdoors—even for a few minutes! Cats, dogs and even predatory birds can easily get around fencing material. Also, rabbits can dig under fences and get lost. You can rabbit-proof an indoor area by covering all electrical wires and anything else your pet is likely to chew. 

•  Toilet 

Rabbits can appear to be messy because of their digging and playing. You will need to clean the rabbit cage once a week. Put your rabbit in a safe room or alternate cage as you sweep out the cage and scrub the floor with warm, soapy water. 

Rabbits are very clean by nature, and will do their best to keep their living quarters spotless. Most rabbits will choose one corner of the cage as a bathroom. As soon as your rabbit’s choice is clear, put a litter box in that corner. Fill it with hay or wood pellet litter (not clay cat litter as it might eat this). Change the litter box daily to keep the cage fresh and odour-free. Don’t use pine or cedar shavings; the fumes may affect a rabbit’s liver. Do not be alarmed if you see your rabbit eating his faeces. It may seem strange, but it is perfectly normal and perfectly healthy. A rabbit eats it as an extra source of nutrients and to aid digestion. 

Veterinary Care & Health

 You should bring your pet to the veterinarian for a check-up at least once a year. Go to the veterinarian immediately if the rabbit stops eating or moving its bowels for 12 hours or longer, or has watery diarrhoea. Other signs of illness include: 

•   Runny nose and eyes 

•   Dark red urine 

•   Lethargy 

•   Fur loss 

•   Red, swollen skin. 

 Rabbits can acquire parasites such as fleas and mites but there are few licensed products available in Ireland. Your veterinarian will be able to advise you what product is best to use should treatment be required. If you are concerned about your rabbit getting parasites from other domestic animals in the household, regular treatment can be given to cats and dogs in spot on form to help prevent them passing the parasites to your rabbit and are available from most veterinary practices. 

Rabbits can also get flystrike a condition where flies lay their eggs in dirt or pooh attached to the rabbit’s coat. A fly strip can be easily placed in the rabbit’s enclosure to help prevent this condition. If you notice any signs of this, such as a dirty coataround the tail and reduced grooming contact your veterinarian immediately as this can develop in to a very serious condition which can be difficult to treat, so check for this daily especially in the summer months. 

Rabbits should be vaccinated against infectious diseases such as viral haemorrhagic disease (VHD) and myxomatosis by the Vet. Such diseases are highly contagious and can be fatal to your rabbit. Your Rabbit can be vaccinated from the ageof eight weeks old. 

Contact your veterinarian for advice on what vaccination regime is best suited for your rabbit. Rabbits in high-risk areas of myxomatosis should receive regular vaccination every six months. 

Food & Drink 

Some people think you can feed a rabbit every few days (when the bowl is empty). This is a myth. A rabbit, like other pets, needs daily attention when it comes to food and water. The most important component of your rabbit’s diet is grass and meadow hay but make sure no chemicals are used on the feed as this will harm your rabbit. These grasses are crucial for keeping his intestinal tract healthy. Unlimited good-quality hay should be available at all times. 

Clean, fresh water, dispensed in a bottle or sturdy bowl, should be available around the clock too. A rabbit’s diet has two more parts to it. Rabbits also need pellets for food; pellets should be fresh and plain, without seeds, nuts or coloured titbits. Fresh leafy greens make up a third component of the rabbit’s diet. He’ll enjoy dark leaf lettuces, greens and carrot tops. These must all be of a quality fit for human consumption or he may get stomach upsets. 

One of the great things about owning a pet rabbit is that you can actually grow a lot of this food yourself. In fact, you don’t even have to be a master gardener or own a huge plot to grow a few of your rabbit’s favourites! 

Grooming 

Brush your rabbit regularly with a soft brush to remove excess hair and keep his coat in good condition. Brush from the back of the head down to the tail. Ask your veterinarian how to clip your pet’s nails and how best to keep his mouth healthy. 

Unlike dogs and cats, rabbits have a completely different kind of teeth. Dogs, cats and humans start with baby teeth and develop permanent teeth as they grow up. That is why dental care is so important as these permanent teeth must last for life. Rabbits’ teeth grow continuously, so they are constantly being worn down and the teeth are being renewed. It is for this reason that the teeth do not need to be brushed, but they do need to be worn down. This is why diet and toys are so important to keep both your rabbit‘s mouth and mind healthy. 

Handling 

The first and most important rule of picking up a rabbit is to never pick him up by the ears, the scruff, legs or tail. It is painful and can cause serious injury. You wouldn’t want to be lifted by your ears, would you? 

Remember that rabbits are fragile. They are fast, but have weak skeletal systems and they do not always enjoy being picked up. Some of them will tolerate it, but many will struggle when you try to lift them. Firstly, approach your rabbit slowly and get down to his level. It will help put your bun at ease. Petting the rabbit will also have a calming effect. When you feel confident your rabbit is ready to be picked up, scoop him up by placing a hand under the torso and pull your bunny close to your body. Support the rabbit’s hindquarters. The rabbit needs to feel secure in your arms. 

If your rabbit struggles when being picked up, hold him firmly, but be ready to put him/her down. Your rabbit may try to leap from your arms and this can cause serious injury. When putting your rabbit down, slowly squat down while holding your bunny close, and let him down gently. 

Your rabbit may respond with a thump or may kick up his hind legs at you while scampering away. It’s nothing personal; he just disapproves of being picked up. They also thump when they sense danger or don’t feel secure. 

Adapted from/Source: 

www.bluecross.ie 

www.aspca.org 

www.rabbit.org 

www.myhouserabbit.com 

Owning a dog is a long-term commitment. Dogs can live for up to 15 years or more but for that to be a happy healthy life you will have to be a responsible owner. Take care of your dog’s health and wellbeing and you will be rewarded with years of unswerving love, devotion and dedication.

Before you decide to get a dog, think about the costs: for instance vaccination, worming, food, toys, collar and lead, identity tag… just to begin with. Puppies are cute but they will poo and make puddles in the house and they may chew things – especially the things they shouldn’t.

Your dog will need your time too. He should not be left alone all day. A dog left home alone can get bored and may become a barking and destructive dog as a result. Leaving a dog unattended outside is not the solution. He may escape the garden or yard. As a result he can roam the neighbourhood, may be stolen, cause a traffic accident or injure a person. You would be responsible.

Identification

When you bring your dog home the first thing to do is to give him a collar and an identity tag with your name and telephone number. The 1985 Control of dogs Act requires that all dogs must wear an identity tag. In 2015 it will become compulsory to micro-chip your dog. This micro-chip has a unique ID number that can be read by a scanner passed over the dog’s body. Your details are kept in a central database (don’t forget to register your details on the database on line or check the veterinarian did it) so when your pet is found and scanned it can be returned home. In the case of a stolen pet being found the owner’s identity would be indisputable and putting a tag on his collar that says he is micro-chipped may deter thieves.

Veterinary Care

Professional care is essential for your dog’s health. Vaccination against distemper, hepatitis, parvovirus, leptospirosis and kennel cough is essential. Many dogs die each year without these vaccines and an annual booster is recommended. If you have any doubts about your dog’s health, trust your instincts and contact your vet. Early diagnosis can save money in the long-term.

· Worming

All dogs will have worms at some point in their lives. Puppies are at high risk as worms are passed from the mother before birth and afterwards through her milk. Puppies should be wormed from two or three weeks of age and then on a schedule advised by the veterinarian until they are six months of age. Adults should be wormed at least three times a year. The dog may not show any signs of illness except when large numbers of worms are present. Worms may cause weight loss, vomiting, diarrhoea, swollen tummies and death.Round Worms and Tapeworms are perhaps the most common and easily treated. Heartworm and Lungworm are more serious and life-threatening. A cure, if possible, can be expensive. Prevention by regular worming treatment is definitely the best option

Neutering

Neutering is the most responsible and safest thing to do to prevent unwanted pups being born. Puppies are cute but they can be a handful and a responsibility requiring the attention of a veterinarian and good homes to be found for them. Neutering also brings health benefits including reducing the chance of cancer.

There are sometimes other benefits too with male dogs less likely to be aggressive and less likely to pee in the home. Female dogs have two seasons a year and if un-neutered may leave marks on floors and furniture. A female in season is driven by her hormones to find a mate and so must be kept at home. Un-neutered males will travel miles following the scent of a female in season leaving one owner with a missing pet and the other with a crowd of males at their gate. The Dogs Trust (www.dogstrust.ie) is an international charity running a subsidized neutering scheme. The scheme entitles people receiving social welfare payments or pensions to have their dog neutered for a maximum cost of €20. To find a participating clinic: 1890 252 928 or enquiries@dogstrust.ie

Food & Drink

Make sure your dog ALWAYS has access to fresh water. Your dog should also have a balanced diet. This is very easy to give him as most commercial dog foods are designed to supply these needs containing the right proportions of protein, fat and fibre. Puppies need special food that is higher in protein for their first year for growing strong bones, healthy teeth and muscle.

Family leftovers alone are not good for your pet as they may contain salt, spices, herbs and incorrect levels of fat. Leftovers can also be poisonous to your pet. Unfortunately, there are many foodstuffs poisonous to dogs and which can KILL them. For more information visit: www.rspca.org.uk/allaboutanimals/pets/general – select the ‘poisoning’ tab.

Grooming

Grooming involves care of the coat, ears, eyes, bums, teeth and nails. Your dog should be groomed on a regular basis. If you do not feel confident about doing this yourself seek the help of a professional groomer.

· Coat

Short-haired dogs will usually need just a weekly brush to help their coat stay clean and shiny.

Long-haired dogs need more attention to avoid knots and tangles leading to mats. These mats can cause your dog discomfort and hold on to water and dirt. Comb your dog once or twice a week at least, with special attention to the areas where mats form easily: under the legs, on tummy and chest. Special grooming aids are available.

· Fleas and Ticks

Fleas and ticks don’t necessarily need to be a fact of your life or that of your dog. Look at his skin after each walk and check for any signs of fleas or ticks. Never just pull a tick off. You may leave the jaws/mouth of the tick buried in the dog’s skin which is uncomfortable and a source of infection. You can get a “tick hook” from your veterinarian or pet shop or ask your veterinarian to show you how to do it safely. Your veterinarian will also advise you on the best form of flea control.

· Bathing

Dogs have natural oils in their coats and a natural doggy smell. This can become strong and occasional bathing will not harm your dog. Regular washing of his bedding is essential to keep him clean and to help prevent flea infestation.

To Bath your dog place a rubber mat in the bath – you will also need a hand-held shower attachment. A rubber one which fits over the taps is fine. Make sure you have old clean towels to hand and mild shampoo. Lift the dog into the bath and wet him thoroughly all over with the warm water but leave his head dry. Shampoo him all over including his paws between the pads, rubbing it in to loosen the dirt; he will enjoy the massage. Talk to him gently while you do this to calm him. Finally, wet his head and rub in the shampoo being careful to avoid his eyes. Once his head is wet he will want to shake himself. Watch out! Rinse him thoroughly, again being careful not to get soap in his (and your!) eyes. Squeeze out the excess water with your hands and then rub him down gently with a towel. Put that towel on the floor and lift him on to it giving him a further dry with a fresh towel. If your dog will tolerate it, it is ok to dry him with a hair dryer set on a low level.

· Bottom

Check his bottom for any bits of pooh which may have caught and dried there. Gentle trimming and a clean-up with a baby wipe will sort that out.

· Ears

Ears should be a nice pale pink and have no bad smells. Red and smelly ears and excessive scratching by your dog are signs of an infection and will need the attention of the vet. Dogs with hair inside their ears or with floppy ears (covering the ear canal) should be given special attention as their ears get more easily infected.

· Eyes

Eyes should be free of dirt. If you see any bits in the corners, gently wipe away with kitchen towel. Never use cotton wool as it may leave fibres in the eyes, making things worse. Eyes that are sticky or constantly watering will need to be checked by your vet.

· Nails

Nails should be short and smooth. Walking your dog regularly helps to keep them this way. Dew claws are slightly higher up the legs on the inside and can grow really long because they are not worn down by walking. They should be checked and clipped. some dogs also have dew claws on their hind legs too. If you are not sure about clipping your dog’s nails, take him to a professional groomer or the vet.

· Teeth

Healty teeth are white and healthy gums are pink. Dogs get a build-up of tartar or plaque on their teeth just like we do. 80% of all dogs over the age of 3 will suffer from some form of dental disease. Like humans, this is a cause of bad breath and can lead to other health problems including heart disease. Brush your dog’s teeth regularly. You can get special dog toothpaste and toothbrushes. The toothpaste comes in different flavours like poultry or malt which dogs like. Never use human toothpaste. If your dog suffers from severe tartar or plaque your veterinarian can clean and polish his teeth.

Exercise

Your dog needs regular exercise. A daily walk will use up his excess energy and keep him trim and fit. It will help him with boredom too; he will be more relaxed afterwards so if you have to leave him at home for a while take him for a walk first. The 1985 Control of Dogs Act requires you to keep your dog under control at all times in public – this means on a lead.

Scoop the Poop

Be responsible about your dog’s mess – PICK IT UP! It isn’t just nasty to tread in but also carries diseases and worms that can cause illness in humans, especially children who play on the ground. There are lots of different ways to clean up after your dog. The cheapest and most environmentally friendly way is a compostable plastic bag. Remember to dispose of the bag in an appropriate bin afterwards. If there is no bin where you are, take it home and put it in your bin.

Sometimes people choose birds as pets thinking they are less hassle than a dog cat. Most people would know that the larger the bird, the longer the lifespan. Even a budgie can live to be 7 years, and there are budgies that have lived to 13 and ever older! To give you the idea, most pet birds require a serious if not lifetime commitment:

Cockatoos up to 60+ years

African Greys up to 60+ years

Cockatiel 12 to 20 years

Parakeets 7 to 18 years

Lovebirds 15 to 25 years

Canaries 10 to 15 years

Finches 5 to 10 years

Housing

Any pet bird needs to have a cage that is at least big enough for them to stretch and flap their wings without hitting the walls or any hanging toys. A good rule of thumb is, the bigger the better. The most important thing to watch for when buying a cage is that the spacing between the bars is appropriate. Not too wide for the bird to squeeze through and escape (or maybe worse: try to squeeze through and get stuck).

Grooming

Birds bathe in water or saturate themselves with dust to care for their feathers (plumage). This applies to all sizes; from budgies who love splashing around in the sink to parrots who dive head first in a pool! Without proper bathing habits most birds will develop feather problems. You will be responsible for teaching your bird these good habits, if you decide to buy a young one.

Food & Beaks

It is hard to say anything sensible about bird food as there are so many species that require different nutrients. Rule of thumb is to get yourself educated. Make sure you are providing a balanced diet. The right diet will also ensure a healthy beak. Birds use their beaks as we use our thumbs. It is used for small tasks and large problems, from putting a single feather in its place to ferociously defending their territory. Specialized veterinary care for birds, e.g. for clipping beaks, is difficult to find. Check your local veterinarian to see if they can help or know of a specialist.

Larger than hamsters, but smaller than rabbits, guinea pigs can weigh a couple of pounds and generally live for five to seven years. The three most common breeds of guinea pig are the Smooth-Coated (short, glossy fur), the Abyssinian (fluffy tufts of hair all over the body) and the Peruvian with long, silky hair that flows to the ground.

Guinea pigs make wonderful companions. They are docile rodents that rarely bite. They make great (ecological) lawn mowers and are known for squeaking with delight when seeing their favourite humans. Guinea pigs are excellent pets for older children who have mastered proper animal handling techniques.

We recommend adopting a guinea pig from a shelter or animal rescue group.

Guinea Pig’s Social Life

Guinea pigs are social animals that should live in small groups. You can keep two or more females together or, if you want two males, it’s smart to choose two babies from the same litter. Since guinea pigs, like all rodents, multiply rapidly, keeping males and females together is not a good idea. You can have male guinea pigs neutered to solve some of the issues related to raging (male) hormones.

Housing & Exercise

When you first get your pet, you’ll need to buy a cage, toys and treats and allow for the cost of food, litter and bedding material. As a rule of thumb, guinea pigs need a minimum of four square feet of cage space per guinea pig, but please try to get as large a cage as possible. The cage needs a solid-bottom (unless you want them to mow the grass for you). Wire floors can irritate their feet. Never use a glass aquarium, due to the poor ventilation that it provides.

Guinea pigs are very susceptible to heatstroke and changes in temperature (draughts), so bear this in mind when finding the right place for the cage. Line the bottom of the cage with newspaper and then hardwood shavings or some other form of safe bedding, such as grass hay. Do not use cedar or pine chips — the oils they contain can be dangerous to pets.

All guinea pigs need a cave for sleeping and resting, a box or flowerpot will do. Guinea pigs also love to hide when they play and will appreciate cardboard tubes, plastic pipes or a flower pot; bricks and rocks for climbing will also be much appreciated. Make sure the toys you provide are safe with no sharp edges or old plastic that can break, etc.

Remove soiled bedding, droppings and stale food from the cage daily. Clean the cage completely once a week by replacing dirty bedding and scrubbing the bottom of the cage with warm, soapy water. Be sure everything’s dry before putting in fresh bedding.

Once you and your guinea pigs are used to each other, you can exercise them by allowing them to run around in a small room or enclosed area. Carefully check the room or area for any openings from which the guinea pigs can escape, get lost and possibly end up hurt. Indoors, guinea pigs really should be supervised when they are loose because they will chew on anything in their paths—including electrical wires.

Veterinary Care & Health

Veterinary care is a crucial part of being responsible for your guinea pig. Make sure your pets have at least an annual check up. If you think your guinea pig is sick, don’t delay visiting your vet. Common signs that something isn’t right include sneezing, coughing, diarrhoea and lethargy. Guinea pigs are also susceptible to external parasites such as mites and lice. If you think your pet has this problem, take it to the veterinarian.

Food & Drink

Guinea pigs need grass-hay and fresh water at all times. The hay is great for the digestive system, and will also satisfy your pet’s need to gnaw. Unlike other animals, guinea pigs cannot manufacture Vitamin C so make sure your guinea pigs get enough of this essential nutrient every day. A quarter of an orange will do, but you can also include some fruits and veggies that are high in C to their daily ration of fresh foods (kale, dandelion greens or strawberries). Offer half a handful of veggies and a slice of fresh fruit per guinea pig per day. This can include grapes, cucumbers, corn, peas, carrots and pears. Always make sure to clean up any leftover fresh food before it spoils. Commercial guinea pig pellets should make up the bulk of your pet’s diet. Feed your guinea pigs twice daily, in the morning and in the evening.

Guinea pigs’ teeth grow continuously, just like those of rabbits. It is thus important that you provide something to gnaw on at all times. Branches and twigs from untreated trees will work, as will any small piece of wood that hasn’t been treated with chemicals.

Grooming

Guinea pigs are very conscientious about grooming themselves, but brushing them on a regular basis will help keep their coat clean and remove any loose hairs. Long-haired guinea pigs should be brushed daily in order to prevent tangles and knots from forming.

Handling

It’s crucial that you get your guinea pigs used to you and to being handled. Start by feeding them small treats. When they’re comfortable with that, you can carefully pick up one pig at a time. Reach one hand under his tummy and with the other, support his back legs – this will make him feel secure and he will be less likely to scratch. Then lift him up to your chest which gives him a sense of security. Hold him for up to 20 minutes. When he starts to squirm it is time to put him back in his cage.

Adapted from/Source: www.aspca.org www.guineapigcare.com.au www.2ndchance.info/guineapigcare.htm

The average age of a well-cared for donkey is 27 years but they can live for as many as 40 years. Owning a donkey is a long-term commitment and should not be entered into lightly. Stallions are by their nature unpredictable, especially if a mare in season is close by and geldings can still be boisterous. Before you consider owning a donkey, make sure that you can provide the basics to keep a donkey happy and healthy 

The Basics 

• Costs of approximately €500 per year 

• One acre of well-fenced grazing 

• A spacious shelter with hard standing 

• A supply of hay and straw & storage for the hay and straw 

• Regular removal of muck 

• Regular attention of a veterinarian, farrier and equine dentist 

• Donkeys prefer to live with a companion animal 

Everyday Responsibilities 

• Fresh feed and water should always be available 

• Check your donkey morning and evening for injuries 

• Always observe your donkey’s normal behaviour 

• Muck out the stable 

• Check if droppings and urine are normal 

• Check grazing for poisonous plants 

• Check fencing for damage 

• Groom your donkey 

Regular Responsibilities 

• Hoof checks every 6-10 weeks as advised by your farrier or veterinarian 

• Routine worming and delousing as advised by your veterinarian 

• Dental checks – annually or, for older donkeys and donkeys with teeth problems, more frequent checks 

• Annual vaccinations 

Veterinary Care & Health 

A healthy donkey should be alert and interested in what is going on around it with ears pricked. No donkey should spend prolonged periods lying down. Healthy donkeys should be able to get up and down easily, and move without limping, taking their weight equally on all four legs. Riding should not begin before the donkey reaches the age of 4 years; his bones will not be fully developed before this age. The rider must weigh no more than 50kg or 8 stone. 

 Check for fresh faeces, the consistency of which may alter with diet. There should be regular output of normal, moist faeces formed into balls, which break up easily. Normal urine is yellow and watery, and may on occasions be cloudy. Male and female donkeys each adopt a different characteristic stance when urinating but it should be passed freely. Repeated attempts to pass urine, or urine which is obviously discoloured or bloody, requires the vet’s attention. Mares in season may attempt to pass urine more frequently. 

•  Worms 

 Lungworm can be present in large numbers in a donkey without showing any signs. Regular worming is essential – your veterinarian can advise on a suitable product. Ringworm is not a worm but a fungal skin condition. It is contagious and if suspected, call your vet. Ringworm lesions (patches) sometimes appear as circles with hair loss, but can take different forms and become widespread. Treatment should be followed to limit the spread to other animals. Ringworm can also be transmitted to humans so wear gloves and wash hands thoroughly after handling the donkey. Also disinfect the donkey’s environment. 

•  Flies 

 Flies can cause distress and irritation. They can spread infection especially around the eyes and they lay eggs in wounds. Some donkeys suffer large swellings when bitten. To prevent problems, remove manure frequently. Also site muck heaps as far away from stables as possible. Provide a field shelter, use a summer sheet or anti-fly rug and apply fly repellent – Ask your veterinarian for advice. 

•  Midges 

Midge bites cause intense irritation, leading to excess rubbing – especially on the mane and tail areas. Culicoides midges cause ‘sweet-itch’ in hypersensitive or allergic donkeys; if your donkey is affected seek the advice of your vet. To prevent problems caused by midges, stable the donkey at dawn and dusk and use fly repellents several times daily. Keep donkeys away from water/wet areas. 

• Mites 

There are a number of mites that cause intense irritation by biting, usually on the lower legs or around the head and neck. Some mites live on the donkey, other types live in hay and straw. Your veterinarian can identify the type of mite on skin samples and prescribe an appropriate insecticide. 

• Lice 

Lice, unlike mites, you can see with the naked eye. They are often found in large numbers and cause rubbing and hair loss. A number of anti-louse preparations are available. You will need to use them more than once to kill unhatched eggs. 

• Ticks 

Usually ticks cause mild irritation at the site of the bite. Ticks may carry Lyme disease and infect humans. Ask your veterinarian for advice on prevention. Check the head is out if you remove the tick; leaving it may cause irritation and infection 

Food & Drink 

A healthy donkey should be looking to eat throughout the day and have no problems chewing or swallowing. The amount a donkey will drink obviously varies according to air temperature, moisture content of food; workload etc. but routine checking of the water supply may provide evidence of its intake. 

 Most donkeys will become obese on unrestricted grazing, and overweight donkeys are more prone to foot problems. The sensible use of electric/moveable fencing will enable you to control your donkey’s intake and maintain an area for haymaking if desired.  Electric tape systems are preferrable to wire as they are more visible. Always follow the manufacturer’s guidelines.  Keep your fence neat and well maintained and check it every morning and evening, moving as appropriate. 

 The rotation of grazed areas can be very useful in helping to control parasitic worms. Ideally pick up dung daily as this prevents the spread of worms. Where this is not possible dung should be removed from the paddock at least twice a week. Donkeys do not like to graze areas spoiled by faeces – would you? 

 In general, take care with feeding. Adequate pasture for grazing and exercise is essential. Depending on the type of land and quality of grass, a 1-acre field correctly managed should provide sufficient grazing for a pair of donkeys. Introduce any supplementary feed slowly and feed small feeds frequently. Similarly reduce or change feeds slowly usually over 7 days. Use high fibre/low starch-sugar feeds. Good quality new hay may need to be introduced slowly in limited amounts. And be very aware of grass cuttings dumped in pasture – grass cuttings can cause fatal colic in donkeys. 

 Be aware of the risks of laminitis from excessive consumption of grass (stressed grass i.e. frosty grass can also be a problem). Donkeys being turned out in the spring after winter housing are particularly susceptible. It is advisable to feed donkeys hay/straw prior to grazing, for a limited time only, when first turned out. Fields previously fertilized may pose a greater threat. Spring, however, is not the only “risk period”. Whenever grass is growing well it may be a potential problem. Frosty conditions can also increase the threat of laminitic attack. Limiting grazing time can be a useful way to restrict access to grass as well as restricting grazing areas by electric fence. Limiting grazing to early mornings and bringing donkeys off pasture by mid morning may also help prevent laminitis. 

•  Poisonous plants and poisons 

Check regularly for poisonous plants and rubbish, both in the pasture and through the hedge/perimeter fence. Ragwort, oak and acorns are the most likely problem plants. Some donkeys may develop a taste for acorns, which can cause problems when eaten in quantity. In the autumn the area around oak trees should be fenced off to prevent donkeys from eating acorns. Yew is also toxic and bracken is potentially toxic. Remember that poisonous plants are more likely to be eaten if other feed is in short supply.  Also be careful if donkeys are allowed in gardens as many contain exotic plants which could be poisonous.  The Donkey Sanctuary offers a fact sheet on poisonous plants.  Avoid grazing recently fertilized fields until the fertilizer has been taken into the soil by sufficient rain. 

Grooming 

Grooming should be carried out on a regular basis to ensure the coat stays healthy and free from matted areas. This also provides an opportunity to examine the donkey for bites, wounds and skin complaints. Do not brush when the coat is wet as water and dirt can reach the skin which increases the chance of skin infections A healthy donkey should have a flat, clean coat with no signs of itching, bald areas, sores or abnormal lumps and bumps. It is a good idea to get your donkey used to you routinely running your hands over all areas of the body, legs and head – a donkey’s coat can often hide developing problems. Clean eyes, nose and dock areas daily. 

• Skin & Hair 

Both of these conditions occur when the skin/hair is wet for a long time. A course of antibiotics is often required so your veterinarian will need to see the donkey. Rain scald affects the shoulders/back and rump, while mud fever affects the lower limbs. The organism responsible is dermatophilus and causes crusting and matting of the hair coat. When the hair coat is pulled out there is pus beneath the scabs. Treatment involves antiseptic washes, good hygiene and dry conditions. 

• Feet 

To keep your donkey’s feet healthy pick them up and remove all the muck and stones daily. Keep bedding clean and dry. Provide a well-drained, clean exercise area and avoid grazing in muddy fields. Find a farrier who regularly trims donkeys’ feet; ask him to visit every 6-10 weeks. If your donkey has specific problems it may need more frequent visits. If you suspect lameness or laminitis contact your veterinarian straight away. Seedy toe (an infection of frog and sole) or thrush (a disease of the hoof wall where areas become weak, grey and crumbly) need particular care and attention. They must be kept in a clean and dry environment and have their feet picked out daily. If seedy toe or thrush becomes a problem then professional help needs to be sought. 

• Eyes & Nose 

Eyes should be clean and bright, open and free from discharge. The nostrils equally should be clean and discharge free. At rest there should be minimal movement of the nostrils as the donkey breathes. In fact it is often difficult to make out the movements of the chest at rest, the movements of the flanks are often the easiest to observe. A flaring of the nostrils, a marked rise and fall of the ribs and flanks, or any noise associated with the donkey’s breathing should be cause for further investigation. 

Adapted from/Source: www.thedonkeysanctuary.ie 

Committing to any exotic pet shouldn’t be taken lightly. Be it a Cockroach or Chameleon; you need to make sure you can provide the correct environment for the duration of your pet’s life. The first question to ask: how long does your chosen animal live?

Understanding your new pet is of upper-most importance. Find out everything you can. Don’t just stick to one book, one website or one person’s advice – do your own research and make an informed decision. You will need to know at the very least the answers to these questions BEFORE you buy an exotic pet:

· How big will it grow?

· What is the life expectancy?

· Is it easy to keep in captivity?

· What kind of enclosure does it need?

· How easy is it to maintain?

· What does it eat?

· How much will it cost to keep?

Availability of Exotic Pets

A really important factor when buying an exotic pet is to understand where it has come from. Not it’s country of origin (although you should know this from your research) – but how the pet you’re going to buy became available. For example; was it Wild Caught/ Collected (WC), Captive Farmed (CF) or Captive Bred (CB)? This is a really important question, depending on the species – it can make a world of difference. Please Note: A lot of animals in the pet trade are WC; the general rule of thumb is: if it doesn’t state it is CB – it is probably WC or CF.

Housing

Next step is to set-up the place you’re going to keep your pet, the enclosure. From all the research you’ve done, you’ll have a good idea of what is needed. Always get your enclosure right before you introduce your pet. Make sure the temperature is correct and everything is working properly. Depending on the pet, the enclosure may need preparation from a few days to a couple of months before introducing your new pet. Now you are ready to buy from a reputable, fully licensed trader or breeder.

Reptiles

Fuelled in part by the resurgence of interest in dinosaurs and increasing numbers of families that have less time and live in smaller spaces, reptiles are a fast-growing part of the pet industry. As the guardian of a reptile, you get to learn about everything from adaptation, behaviour and the environment, to nutrition, camouflage and reproductive strategies. When it comes to reptiles, cold-blooded is a way of life, not a character trait. Reptiles are capable of recognizing people by voice, sight and smell; many are capable of learning. Some species actually benefit from interaction with

humans. When cared for properly, all live as long as or longer than ‘traditional’ pets of similar size.

The highly efficient metabolism of these animals means that they can conserve energy resources by staying cool and eating less food, which also means that it can take them a very long time to die. This misleads people into believing that they are providing adequate care. Unfortunately, treatment that would kill a mammal or bird in a matter of weeks or months may take years to kill a reptile.

Most reptiles are inexpensive. Some are downright cheap. This is why many reptile owners are unwilling to spend the money necessary to properly house and feed their reptiles, or provide them with the veterinary care they require. As with other pets, buying the reptile itself is usually the cheapest part of keeping one. The initial outlay should also include an enclosure, special heating and lighting, substrate, essential furnishings, food and water bowls, nutritional supplements, housing and food, prey insects and veterinary visits with parasite testing and treatment. Ongoing monthly expenses include cleaning and disinfecting supplies, new substrate, food and electricity.

· Is a Reptile The Right Pet For You?

Keeping a reptile is a commitment to a living, sentient being that will last a long, long time depending on the species: lizards may live five to 20 years, snakes more than 40 years and turtles & tortoises 40 to 100 years or more.

The most common reasons for getting rid of a reptile include not realizing how large or fast the species grows, nor how much work is involved.

Learn first how to pick out healthy animals and resist impulse buys of species about which you have not done sufficient research.

If you rent your home, check your lease and housing agreement: keeping a reptile when it is not permitted could result in a quick eviction.

Frequently overlooked is good veterinary care. Very little time is spent in veterinarian school learning about reptiles, and with more than 4,000 species, there is a lot to learn! Have a good reptile veterinarian lined up before you bring the animal home. Make an appointment for an examination and faecal test in the 1st week.

Carnivores are easier than omnivores, and both are easier than herbivores. Dried insects and powdered/ pelleted/ canned foods are not appropriate for lizards, snakes and tortoises. Herbivorous diets are more complicated and time-consuming to shop for and prepare than carnivorous diets. Anybody who said to feed your herbivore just lettuce might as well have recommended styrofoam.

Never catch a reptile from the wild, and whenever possible, adopt. Many herpetological societies do reptile rescue and adoptions, as do independent reptile rescuers. Expect to be screened carefully by the people handling the adoptions, keeping in mind that they have the reptiles’ best interests at heart.

· Learn About Reptiles

Pet stores are generally not the place to get information and most reptile pet care books at stores and libraries are outdated or contain a mixture of accurate and inaccurate information, enough to put a pet reptile at risk of injury or death. There is a tremendous amount of reptile care information on the World Wide Web, ranging from comprehensive and accurate to dangerously inaccurate. You will need to evaluate the Web site material, as well as the author. Recommended site: www.anapsid.org

The cat is an independent animal and this may suggest it needs only a low-level of care.  This is not true and only if taken good care of will a cat reach a healthy old age.  A well-cared for cat can live for 15-20 years. 

Take your cat to the veterinarian for a health check straight after you get him, no matter how old he is.  Use a plastic pet carrier to transport cats.  They can claw and eat their way out of a cardboard box.  An upset cat loose in your car is dangerous 

Identification 

Your cat should wear a special cat collar with identification tag with your name and telephone number.  A cat collar will come loose if caught on something, for instance a branch.  Puppy collars are not suitable for cats as they do not have such a safety release.  Some collars don’t have a safety catch, but a short piece of elastic that stretches so the cat can free himself from the collar if accidentally caught.  consider putting a small bell on the collar to protect wild birds.  If you want your cat to hunt, use the bell in spring when fledglings are about.  Take it off again in the autumn and winter for the vermin season. 

Your veterinarian can insert a micro-chip under the skin in the shoulder area.  This chip will ensure that your cat can be identified if he has lost his collar and tag.  It is not expensive and an important help in getting your pet back home. 

Neutering 

Neutering is important so that your cat will not carry or cause unwanted kittens. 

Female cats will look for a quiet and safe place to have their babies,which could be quite a distance from yur home.  You may never know about the kittens your cat put out in the world until they have turned into feral cats and there is an overpopulation or territory problem! 

If your cat is male, neutering him can reduce roaming, fighting, spraying and crying.  And he can no longer contribute to the overpopulation problem. 

A Purrrrrfect Cat Environment 

• The Basics 

Provide your cat with his own warm bed.  Cats prefer a quiet and draft-free spot.  To keep their nails in shape cats need to scratch.  Save your furniture by providing a scratching post.  A good scratching post can be as basic as a piece of wood covered with an off-cut of carpet.  You will also need water and food bowls that are easily cleaned and a cat toilet. 

• Cat Toilet 

Cats need a toilet, called a litter tray.  Consider having one even if your cat has access to a garden.  A litter tray is a useful tool to keep track of your cat’s health.  There are many types and brands of trays and litter.  Place the tray far away from the food area.  You wouldn’t like to eat in the bathroom so don’t expect your cat to either. 

• Cat Litter 

If you can, choose a litter that is environmentally friendly in that it doesn’t harm the natural environment in its production process or after the cat has used it.  Solids should be removed from the litter tray daily.  Any type of scoop will do.  Don’t put the poop in the compost for your vegetable patch, it is unhealthy for (pregnant) humans.  The litter itself should be changed regularly.  How often depends on the product you use.  Before you put in fresh litter clean the tray inside and out.  Get into the habit of disinfecting the tray and the place it stands once a week.  Good hygiene is important when cleaning a toile .  Wear rubber gloves or wash your hands thoroughly. 

Cat Behaviour 

Cats are intelligent and need mental stimulation.  They love small toys to play with.  If they do show unwanted behaviour, physical punishment will not work.  Cats may become fearful or, smart as they are, simply misbehave when you are away.  Cats also use unwanted behaviour to get attention!  Good cat training means rewarding good behaviour.  Stopping unwanted behaviour means you will have to be consistent.  What will you accept from your cat and where do you draw the line?  When the cat exhibits unwanted behaviour, make a loud noise or squirt with a water bottle to stop it. 

Food & Drink 

Dry food and fresh water should be available all the time to cats of all ages.  Offer some wet food, cats are desert animals originally and they often don’t drink sufficient water – they can get some from the moisture in wet food. 

Cats have a different digestive system from people and dogs.  To give an example, cow’s milk can cause diarrhoea and vomiting.  There is a special cat milk available from pet suppliers, but your cat really only needs clean and fresh water available at all times. 

Dry cat food helps to keep your pet’s teeth clean and is the easiest to handle and portion.  Avoid putting dog food where the cat can eat it.  Cats need more protein and amino acids than dog food provides.  Equally cat food is not good for dogs and can cause health problems.  Don’t feed table scraps unless you want your cat to roam the kitchen for more.  Never give your cat bones. 

• Feeding Kittens 

Kittens should not be taken from their mother until they are seven to eight weeks old.  If you find a motherless kitten, take it to a veterinarian to find out about age and feeding.  Kittens require high calorie food because they are growing fast.  Remove any uneaten food after ten minutes.  Overfeeding can cause diarrhoea and vomiting.  When your kitten reaches one year of age gradually change the dry food to an adult formula.  Mix one quarter adult food with three quarters kitten food.  Gradually increase the adult food to 100% over a 5 to 10 day period 

Grooming 

Brushing or combing your cat daily will help reduce hairballs from forming in the stomach when he grooms himself and grooming will allow you to check for any physical problems that may be starting.  Use a soft brush or wide-toothed comb for long-haired cats.  A rubber bristle brush works well for short-haired cats.  Special food is available for cats that have a tendency to form fur balls 

Adapted from/Source: 

www.catcaresociety.org 

www.bluecross.ie 

The Difference Between A Stray & A Feral Cat A stray cat is a pet cat that is lost or abandoned. Feral cats are the offspring of lost or abandoned pet cats or other feral cats who are not spayed or neutered. Stray cats are accustomed to contact with people and are tame (although they may act feral if they are frightened). Feral cats are not accustomed to contact with people and are typically too fearful and wild to be handled. Stray cats may be reunited with their families or adopted into new homes, but feral cats do not easily adapt to living as pets in close contact with people. However there are many things you can do to help improve the health and quality of life of feral cats. Feral Cat Groups (Colonies) Feral females (queens) can have two to three litters of kittens per year. Their kittens ifthey survive, will become feral without early contact with people. Cats can become pregnant as early as 4 months of age, and the number of cats rapidly increases without intervention by caring and responsible humans. Being pregnant so young and so often, continuously having and nursing kittens, is very stressful for female cats. More than half of the kittens are likely to die without human intervention. Feral males (toms or tom cats) roam, and they will fight to defend their territories and females. And any un-neutered tom can get a queen, pet or feral, pregnant! Any un-neutered queen, feral or pet, can become pregnant by a feral tom. That is why both toms and queens need to be neutered Cat in Trap Trap Neuter Return (TNR) Trap-Neuter-Return is a non-lethal strategy to reduce the number of feral cats and improve the quality of life for cats, birds, wildlife and people. At a minimum, feral cats that are TNR-ed are spayed or neutered so they can no longer reproduce. They are also surgically ear-tipped on one ear. Humans will be able to recognize cats that have been neutered this way. Dedicated caretakers (colony managers) feed and provide shelter for TNR-ed cats. They also monitor the cats for sickness and have new cats TNR-ed. Without TNR and a dedicated caretaker, the population of the feral colony would continue to increase and disease may take hold. Feral Cat Rescue & Re-homing RAWR doesn’t have a rescue centre and all the animal shelters we work with or know already care for and try to find homes for thousands of pet cats every year. The friendly, socialized and healthy cats may find homes. Spitting, hissing and scratching feral cats most certainly will not! Euthanizing Feral Cats (which RAWR does not do) Some people feel sorry for feral cats because of their difficult and dangerous life. Others are annoyed by their behaviour. Getting rid of the cats will not help as long as there are plenty waiting in the wings to take over the newly available territory. Other feral cats would move into the vacant territory to take advantage of the food source and shelter made available by removing feral cats. It’s an endless cycle. This is called the ‘vacuum effect’. Solving Common Complaints Associated With Feral Cats When feral cats are trapped, neutered and returned to their territory, they no longer reproduce. When the colony is then monitored by a caretaker who removes and/or TNRs any newly arrived cats, the population stabilizes and gradually declines over time. The cessation of sexual activity eliminates the noise associated with mating behaviour and dramatically reduces fighting and the noise it causes. Foul odours are greatly reduced as well because neutered male cats no longer produce testosterone which, when they are unaltered, mixes with their urine and causes the strong, pungent smell of their spraying